It is no secret that Rostaing's finest cuvee is the 500+ cases of Cote Rotie Cote Blonde. The 1998 (all from La Garde) is made from vines planted in 1934 and 1970/71. It includes about 4% Viognier (the only Rostaing cuvee to contain this varietal), and 50% stems are utilized during fermentation. The exquisite, dense ruby/purple-colored 1998 offers up soaring aromas of peach and blackberry jam. The wine is velvety-textured and full, with layers of glycerin, extract, and concentrated fruit, superb richness, impressive purity, and a finish that lasts 40+ seconds. Anticipated maturity: now-2015.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

A masculine, ripe expression of C?te R?tie, the 1998 C?te R?tie C?te Blonde offers up tons of blackberry and cassis fruit to go with notions of smoked meats, iron and earth. Hitting the palate with blockbuster levels of concentration and a voluptuous, sexy texture, it still has a surprising amount of tannin that come through on the finish. Nevertheless, this is mature and drinking nicely. I would opt for drinking bottles over the coming decade or so.