The 2005 Chinon Coteau de Noire is being raised in nearly all new barriques (more usually the share is 50%) and won’t be bottled until year’s end. It betrays a whiff of sawdust atop its impressively ripe black currant and floral nose, spoils the palate with juicy richness even while maintaining firm tannins and a stony mineral undertone, and finishes with a staining intensity of iodine, crushed stone and bitter-sweet black fruits. I find this in a lovely way quite Barbera-like. It should be worth cellaring for at least 5-7 years. It has been just over twenty years since Philippe Alliet consolidated his family’s properties, and he has built one of the region’s finest reputations while personally remaining remarkably reclusive. (I tasted with Alliet’s wife, who took pains to explain that no offense was intended by her husband’s absence in his vineyards.)A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300. Also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA 94708; tel. (510) 559-1040