The 2009 Zinfandel Rockpile comes across as tight and structured. Sweet tobacco, spices, dried leaves and sweet red cherries are some of the notes that flow from the 2009 Rockpile. There is plenty of energy here, but not quite enough fruit to match the wine’s tannic structure. With a little more juiciness the Rockpile might merit a higher score; as it stands, the tannins show elements of dryness on the finish that are distracting. The Rockpile emerges from a site above Dry Creek. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. The Seghesio family planted their first Zinfandel vines in Alexander Valley in 1895, the early days of a rich heritage that continues to this day under the leadership of Ted Seghesio.Tel. (707) 433-3579

The alcohol is high, giving the wine a peppery burn, but that’s part of its charm. Without such ripeness, the wine wouldn’t have the briary berry, sweet dried currant and leathery flavors. New oak, to the tune of 25%, adds an even richer layer of char. Quite an accomplishment. Drink with barbecue or big, hearty beef dishes.——S.H.(3/1/2012)—— 92