The ambitiously-styled 1997 Barbera d'Asti Pomorosso (13,500 bottles produced) is aged in French oak, of which 80% is new. It exhibits density and oak in addition to gorgeous, full-bodied, concentrated flavors offering up notes of smoked herbs, ripe cherry jam, plums, and spice. This rich, nicely-textured, super-concentrated, moderately acidic Barbera should drink well for a decade. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620