Hat Trick is the best of the best of Morgan’s estate vineyard, which is in the chilliest northwestern part of the Highlands. Acidity stars, giving the wine a brilliant crispness that’s so clean and fine. Barrel fermented in one-third new French oak, the wine is incredibly rich and leesy. The terroir has coaxed out complex layers of pineapples, Meyer lemons, limes, apricots and very exotic tropical fruits suggesting golden mangoes and papayas. The oak adds even richer layers of creme brulee to this vastly enjoyable wine.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 95