Just as in 2005, Serafin's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes represents a significant step up in concentration and interest over his "regular" Gevrey. Purple plum, black raspberry, clove, tobacco and game on the nose lead to a palate of rich fruitiness and considerable complexity, with its carnal dimension managing not to migrate into too well-hung a gaminess. At 14% (natural, says Serafin) alcohol, this is a powerful wine, but free of heat or roughness, with its tannins well tucked-in. I suspect it will be worth following for 4-6 years, but that its flavors will quickly turn significantly more animal. Vineyard manicure and green harvesting – to hear Christian Serafin tell it – were keys to success in 2006, and he managed to achieve very ripe results. Fascinatingly, these include both wines that are quintessentially 2006, and some that seem destined to capture a combination of structure and energy reminiscent of 2005. Serafin, by the way, is a grower who explicitly recognizes the challenges in steering a course between concentration and elegance, rather than taking the latter for granted as part of his and his vines' birthright.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Smoky, new-wood aromas and flavors cloak the black berry fruit in this wine. It has a hard edge at the moment, like concentrated wood juice. But there is fruit there, so give the wine two years and those powerful, brooding fruits will come through. ——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 89