Deep, rich and full-throttle, yet still elegant and focused, the 2005 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree is 100% Marsanne from the Les Murets lieu-dit and was brought up all in demi-muids. Offering off the hook notes of quince, honeysuckle, liquid rock, orange blossom and sautéed peach, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness, notable freshness and purity, and a crazy long finish. White wine doesn’t get much better, and this beauty will have another two to three decades of longevity.

Chapoutier’s line-up of single vineyard white Ermitages, all from mid- to upper slopes of that small appellation, are prodigious wines. I have been following them since he first introduced L’Oree in 1991, and they are sensational to drink in their first 4-5 years, then seem to go into a rather bizarre oxidized stage that can last for 7-8 years, and then they re-emerge as something even more complex. The one thing I never understand is how the color sometimes actually lightens as they age, which makes no sense to me whatsoever, although I suspect there must be some scientific explanation. The 2005 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree is a spectacular wine, with notes of nectarine, quince, honeyed hazelnuts, honeysuckle, and an almost exotic note buttressed by excellent acidity and no notice of any oak. The wine has prodigious richness and a full-bodied intensity that needs to be tasted to be believed. This is stunning stuff that should drink well for 50 or more years, but you can drink it over the next 4-5 years or forget it for 12-15. My aging curve on all of these single-vineyard wines is pretty much the same, and these are very strong vintages with higher acidity than 2005. With twenty vintages under his belt, Michel Chapoutier and his impressive winemaking staff go from strength to strength. These are among the world’s greatest wines, especially the single vineyard wines, many of which will last 50 or more years. Chapoutier thinks 2006 is one of the very finest vintages in the northern Rhone for white wines (and I don’t see any reason to disagree). The naturally high acidity and a summer season with no brutal heat waves allowed the wines to maintain their acidity while at the same time gaining flavor intensity. I have always had the feeling that despite his prodigious ability to make profound red wines, Michel Chapoutier gets a greater thrill from his white wine portfolio than from his impressive reds. . The single vineyard wines from Chapoutier are wines of super concentration, and are made from what are historically tiny yields. Along with Chaves’ white Hermitage and a handful of other Rhone whites, these are potentially the longest-lived and most profound whites being produced there. From the granite hillsides of St.-Joseph, Michel Chapoutier makes by far the appellation’s finest white, and one might argue, red as well.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900