The 2009 Volnay Fremiets emerges from the glass with masses of dark fruit allied to equally powerful structure. The vineyard is rich in rocks and limestone, which confers quite a bit of heft. This parcel of Fremiets is right next to Jarollieres in Pommard. The Fremiets was made with 100% destemmed fruit. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Nicolas Rossignol began picking on September 10th and brought in very ripe fruit, with natural alcohols in the 13.5% range. Rossignol used a higher percentage of stems than normal to give the wines a measure of freshness. The wines saw 20-24 days of cuvaison (with no cold soak) with one punchdown per day. New oak ranged from 15% for the villages to 33-50% for the 1ers. The wines were not racked during their time in barrel. Rossignol has an energy and passion that will take him far. His 2009s are a bit all over the place stylistically, though, and it appears that a distinct house style has yet to emerge. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640; Pas Mal Portfolio, NY; tel. (201) 569-4132