Like the Clos de la Barre, Lafon's 1980 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is still rather austere. Opening in the glass with scents of apricot, buttered toast, iodine and beeswax, it's medium to full-bodied, firm and tightly wound, with chalky structuring dry extract that lends some asperity to the finish. This isn't going into decline any time soon, but it will never display the plenitude of a great vintage.