The domaine wines start with a wonderful example of a Cotes du Rhone, Yves Gras’ 2009 Les Quatres Terres. He makes about 4,000 cases of this wine, which is about 70% Grenache, 25% Syrah and the rest Mourvedre and Counoise. Deep blueberry and black cherry notes intermixed with some licorice, incense and roasted herbs are all present in this fragrant, luscious, medium to full-bodied Cotes du Rhone that should drink nicely for another 2-3 years. One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083