The formidably concentrated 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint smells of green beans and diverse herbs wreathed in wood smoke; displays a bitter-sweet fruit pit character on the palate with a creamy, faintly oily texture; and finishes with richness and refinement on notes of green bean, apricot kernel, coffee, and lightly salted, toasted pumpkin seeds. It should keep nicely for 6-8 years. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Medium green-yellow. Inviting aromas of refreshing green apple and tobacco are joined by a more exotic character reminiscent of papaya. Full-bodied, yet crisply structured. The expressive fruit carries through an impressively long finish, showing abundant apricot. Drink 2008 to 2018.

From a flat vineyard with rich soil, this is a relatively sweet and rich wine, although the acidity gives a lift of freshness. Apricot, white fruits and concentration mark the finish.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 94