The 2009 Verdeca Bianco Messapia is one of the finest wines I have tasted from Puglia. Bright citrus, lime peel and flowers come together beautifully in this rich, textured white. The balance here is simply beautiful. Verdeca, thought to be of Greek origin, is one of the many ancient varieties that are being rediscovered in southern Italy. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. If these wines are any indication, recently arrived consulting oenologist Riccardo Cotarealla is having a profound impact on quality at Leone de Castris. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Messapia offers a unique white wine (made with the Verdeca grape variety) that opens with floral aromas of peach blossom and honeysuckle and offers both structure and a touch of sweetness in the mouth. The wine would make a perfect companion to white meat or shellfish.——M.L.(7/1/2011)—— 85