One of the best kept secrets in Italian wine is the Champagne-style sparkling wine which Giacosa makes from Pinot Noir grapes purchased in the nearby Oltrepo Pavese. The 2000 Spumante Extra Brut, a blanc de noirs, yeasty and floral with an important aromatic impact, is an impeccable sparkler, substantial, vibrant, long, and perfectly balanced. It rivals the finest offerings from Franciacorta such as Bellavista and Ca’ del Bosco. Anticipated maturity: now-2008.A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Known for his prize-winning Barbaresco and Barolo, Giacosa pulls off a surprise hit with his Pinot Noir-based sparkler. The aromas are more floral and a citrus backbone yields an overall sensation of freshness. A little-known wine definitely worth discovering. ——M.L.(12/15/2004)—— 90