Tart edged boysenberry and blackberry are far more generous in the 2009 Pinot Noir Grand P – from the Pfersigberg – than in the corresponding “H” bottling from Hengst. What accounts for this circumstance is probably a combination of factors: the much smaller (one-third) proportion of stems with which this fruit was fermented; this wine’s less-reduced condition; and the sheer tendency of the chalky, cool Hengst, to project a rather austere mineral side in whatever grape variety is grown there. Elder flower and iris floral perfume persists in wafting inner-mouth profusion and brown spices lend a further dimension that lingers with lip-licking tenacity. This has serious potential for 6-8 years of bottle evolution, yet will be more attractive from the get-go than the corresponding “H.” Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Tart edged boysenberry and blackberry are far more generous in the 2009 Pinot Noir Grand P – from the Pfersigberg – than in the corresponding “H” bottling from Hengst. What accounts for this circumstance is probably a combination of factors: the much smaller (one-third) proportion of stems with which this fruit was fermented; this wine’s less-reduced condition; and the sheer tendency of the chalky, cool Hengst, to project a rather austere mineral side in whatever grape variety is grown there. Elder flower and iris floral perfume persists in wafting inner-mouth profusion and brown spices lend a further dimension that lingers with lip-licking tenacity. This has serious potential for 6-8 years of bottle evolution, yet will be more attractive from the get-go than the corresponding “H.” Although Maurice and Jacky Barthelme continued to pick their 2009 Rieslings into October and achieved satisfyingly ripe flavors, they did so without suffering high alcohol or unbalanced sweetness. Unsurprisingly (whether or not verifiably), they implicate the accumulated experience and effects of a biodynamic regimen in these results. Equally importantly, the levels of acidity in their 2009 Rieslings are ample and efficacious. With Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, they were forced to discharge high must weights in the form of almost universally high residual sugar, with attractive if seldom distinguished results. The Mann 2008s are characterized by particularly concentrated and positively efficacious acidity, all of the Rieslings weighing-in at what on paper might look like an excessive 9 grams or more. Not only have the Barthelme brothers been together now for 21 vintages – to me it still seems like yesterday that I “discovered” their 1988s – but they point out that most of their present crew has been together for nearly a decade, which is bound to have been instrumental in their having been able to repeatedly expand into new vineyards without sacrificing the highest standards, not to mention with their enthusiasm still youthful. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800