Knoll’s generic 2004 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel from diverse sites in Loiben was harvested at the end of October. This, Knoll explains, “is very, very late for lighter Gruner Veltliner, but we kept waiting week after week for nicer weather.” The wine offers aromas and flavors of lentil and rhubarb, an invigorating tartness yet with a hint of textural creaminess and excellent mouth-filling qualities for a relatively light-bodied wine. An attractive note of honeysuckle hovers over top of the lentil and juicy, tart fruits in the finish. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Light and fresh, but seems to lack a bit of intensity, offering modest melon and white pepper flavors. Finishes a bit short.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 85