The 2008 Incognito is Syrah in full flight, gamey and showing a lot of character, and in this vintage, showing rather crisp and focused as well, with moderately ripe tannins. It is caressing on the palate. The wine seems a bit smokey as well. The traces of funk may not be to everyone's liking, but note that with more aeration they did moderate dramatically. The mid-palate is rather elegant and focused. To its credit, as it airs out, it shows some potential for improvement in the cellar. As Syrah goes, it is a wine that has some varietal character, and you don't always get that in Portugal. Drink now-2020. Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; Vinos Unico, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 531-3419; Vinum Wine Importers, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

Earthbound Syrah, with plenty of acidity to go with the berry fruits. It pushes its freshness as much as its weighty black flavors, with a warm ripe feel to it. ——R.V.(8/1/2011)—— 86