Even better, the 2005 Cornas la Louvee offers more fruit, texture and length in its medium to full-bodied, balanced and layered personality. Giving up lots of crème de cassis, black raspberry, spice, licorice and garrigue, it has terrific mid-palate density, sweet tannin and a great finish. Drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.

The 2005 Cornas La Louvee (fewer than 2,000 bottles produced) is a seriously endowed effort that remains incredibly tannic, backward, and structured. A classic example of the vintage, it is well-endowed yet also forbiddingly backward, and painfully hard and austere. I like the character of the black fruit, crushed rock, scorched earth, etc, and believe it is just a question of time. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020+. This globe-trotting northern Rhone oenologist owns an ever-expanding negociant business, but his finest wines remain his estate offerings from Cornas. He owns 19 acres, including some superb parcels in Chaillot and St.-Pierre. Most are relatively old vine sites. Colombo’s approach to winemaking is thoroughly modern, and he was the first in Cornas to utilize new oak casks. Additionally, he destems everything and aims for relatively high extraction with warm fermentation temperatures.Importer: Palm Bay Imports, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Pretty approachable for a 2005 Cornas, with a lush texture that carries superripe plum fruit, toasty oak and hints of espresso bean. Vanilla and dried spices come through loud and clear on the finish. Drink now-2018.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 90