The 2006 Etna Rosso di Verzella (Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio) offers up dried cherries, sweet herbs, tobacco and dried flowers on a mid-weight frame. Slight notes of greenness detract from the otherwise fine balance. This fleeting, ethereal red is best enjoyed over the next year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Lamoremio that is already a touch forward and probably not built for the long haul. Still, it should drink beautifully for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Benanti is a reference-point producer for beautiful wines from the Etna and Pachino, two of Sicily’s most privileged spots. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these new releases.

Rosso di Verzella is a rich expression from Mt. Etna with luscious aromas of barbecue smoke, bacon, wild berry and slate roof. The wine is elegant and powerful at the same time and offers a fine berry texture in the mouth. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 89