Hartford Court's two Pinot Noirs are largely whole berry-fermented wines that are aged in primarily new French oak for nearly a year, and bottled with no filtration. Even more intense and aromatically profound than the impressive 1994 Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Sanchietti Vineyard, the 1994 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard exhibits a glorious nose of subtle toasty oak that adds an attractive spice component to the otherwise intense, black-cherry, raspberry, and floral scents. Full-bodied, round, expansive, and sumptuous, this is a gorgeously made, concentrated Pinot Noir that should drink well for 5-6 years (as will the Dutton Ranch cuvee). The three wines reviewed in this issue are impressive debut releases from this small winery (with Kendall-Jackson affiliations) that is dedicated to the luxury end of the marketplace. Made in small quantities (400 cases of each Pinot Noir and 500 cases of the Zinfandel), these are artisanally-styled wines of considerable intensity and character. As I have been saying for the last several years, California has made remarkable progress with respect to Pinot Noir. Every month new producers are coming on line, turning out wines that no longer need to make apologies to Burgundy. Sooner or later someone will do a tasting of 1993 grand cru red Burgundies versus American Pinot Noir, and the results will not be cause for celebration in France's Cote d'Or. Tel. (707) 887-1532