Produced from the Mendoza Chardonnay clone and matured in 500L French puncheons where it rested on its lees until the following spring, the 2004 Virtuoso Chardonnay reminded me of a Corton-Charlemagne though the palate could still benefit from a few more months in bottle as the oak still needs time to meld into the structure of this outstanding wine. The flight of Pinot Noirs continued to illustrate their Burgundy influence, the reds often reminiscent of Morey-Saint-Denis. Although winemakers Matthew Donaldson and Lynette Hudson look as if they have just got in from an all-night rave, they are presently producing some of New Zealand’s most exhilarating, Burgundyinspired white wines, their reds suffused with earthy flavors. They are demonstrating the potential of the Canterbury wine region and constitute one of New Zealand’s best producers. Their whites are exhilarating and seem best between a year in bottle and around fiveyears. Importer: Empson (USA), Inc., Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900; fax (703) 684-2065