Sanford's full-bodied, compelling 1992 Chardonnay Barrel Select hits the palate with the power of a full-force gale, remains there for a lengthy period, and finishes with a whollop of juicy, buttery fruit buttressed by decent acidity. It is an extroverted, rich, boldly-styled Chardonnay with all its components in balance. The oak is barely noticeable because of the superb extraction of fruit. The bouquet has yet to fully emerge, but there is no doubting that Sanford has produced another winner. It was made to be drunk with lobster! Drink it over the next several years. Tel. (805) 688-3300.