The 2006 RESERVA BRANCO seems rather full in the mouth, although unhappily tinged with the American oak that this winery sometimes loves a bit too much. It has some grip, vibrancy, depth and a decent finish. It is, at times, quite charming and elegant. If you like the oak treatment, which is not truly overbearing, this is a very good value that performs well. Drink now- 2011. Esporao is one of Alentejo’s iconic producers, with vast vineyards (some 650 hectares) that partly have some age on them (some vines are around thirty years old, considerable relative to the many young wineries in the region). It has some of the region’s most beautiful and atmospheric cellars. Its lineup tends to be value oriented, and the winery excels in producing nice wines for little money, sometimes to the point where you wonder why you should step up. Its winemaker, Australian David Baverstock, is a long time resident in Portugal who has assisted many prominent wineries in the Douro as well.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843.

Very New World in its ripe, tropical fruit flavors, rounded toasty element, and impressive concentration. Yet the elegance also remains, finishing with spice and light acidity, adding shape to this rich wine.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 90

The white Reserva from Esporao is full-bodied, with a judicious mix of softness and toasty creaminess. There’s a great touch of lime to freshen it all up, as well as spice to go with the wood. Aging potential for the next 2–3 years.——R.V.(12/15/2007)—— 89