Though the Wine Advocate has been bellowing it for years, it is worth repeating: Columbia Crest is the source of some of the finest values in the world. I am awestruck that winemaker Ray Einberger and his team can produce such quality in industrial-size quantities. Named after a Washington State University researcher considered to be one of the pioneers of the state’s wine industry, the 2002 Walter Clore Private Reserve Red (5,250 cases) is the finest to date. This outstanding wine reveals demure aromas of blackberries, sage, vanilla, and rosemary. A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, it bursts on the palate, wowing the taster with its concentration and depth of fruit. Medium to full-bodied, it coats the palate with a myriad of spices, dark berries, and tar. Its extensive, seamless finish reveals additional fruit as well as a slight hint of menthol. Drink this wonderful offering between 2008 and 2016. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

The house style is readily apparent here: red fruits, whiffs of cocoa, light herb and a hint of pickle barrel. Tastes good, comes together well, but hard to distinguish from the reserve cab, which seems to have just a bit more stuffing.——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 88