Interesting and ageworthy is the Hermitage Chevalier de Sterimberg, a blend of 50% Roussanne and 50% Marsanne, that is encouraged to go through malolactic fermentation. The 1999 reveals notes of tropical fruits, honey, spice, and nuts. Although tight, it is medium to full-bodied, dense, and impressive. It should last for 12-15 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Jaboulet’s white Hermitage is named after the crusading knight who built and settled in the small chapel on the Hermitage hill. The wine itself is powerful, rich and concentrated, with heady perfumes of wild flowers and nuts. The palate combines a hint of wood, a full-bodied, oily texture and a stunning burst of acidity that leaves a crisp aftertaste.——R.V.(6/1/2002)—— 94