Boasting plum, bitter chocolate and some earth, this is a fairly full Malbec, but not one that shows off the best this winery can do. For that, wait for the 2002 and ’03 vintages, which are measurably better. Here, however, there’s bulky fruit, coffee notes and some woody spice that are more than acceptable.——M.S.(3/1/2005)—— 86