The 2009 Chardonnay Lolita Ranch caresses the palate with dried apricots, lemon, spices and white flowers, all supported by a persistent vein of underlying minerality. The Lolita Ranch captures plenty of Martinelli exuberance in a slightly restrained style. I imagine the Lolita Ranch will continue to drink well for at least another handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Martinelli is one of the original pioneering families in Sonoma. I tasted a wide range of wines during a recent visit. The 2008 Syrahs, from a challenging vintage, are a bit up and down, but the rest of the wines are all outstanding. As always, these are fairly bold, extroverted wines, but their overall balance is typically superb. Tel. (707) 525-0570