With respect to the 1990 vintage, the Marchesi di Barolo produced two wines that are probably the finest Barolos they have made in 30 or more years, the Barolo Sarmassa and the Barolo Cannubi. The 1990 Barolo Sarmassa exhibits excellent ripeness in its herb, spicy, smoky, black-cherry-scented nose, deep, rich, full-bodied, concentrated flavors, and a long, supple finish. Drink this hedonistic Barolo over the next 10 years. The late Sheldon Wasserman probably stated it best in his comprehensive book on the red wines of Italy when he wrote, "Marchesi di Barolo owns 100 acres of vineyards, including some of the best sites in Barolo, a fact unfortunately not evident in their wines." This longtime underachiever has finally begun to turn out rich, complex wines. Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.