The estate’s 2004 Barolo Tortoniano is made in an accessible, feminine style. Medium in body, the wine flows from the glass with layers of sweet, perfumed fruit, showing notable balance and harmony. The wine closes beautifully, with an inviting, long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is a very solid set of wines from Michele Chiarlo, a producer who seems to be moving in the right direction with regards to quality.Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Tortoniano is a fabulous wine for first-time drinkers of Barolo. Its price is reasonable for the category and the wine offers those buoyant and direct aromas of cola and currants that are so typical of Nebbiolo. The mouthfeel is drying and firm and the wine is ready to drink within the next two years.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 90