The 1994 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers (one of my favorite Chassagne-Montrachet premier cru vineyards) reveals a honeyed nose with a hint of botrytis. It possesses great fruit, a full-bodied texture, excellent purity, low acidity, and a heady, alcoholic finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Marc Morey is one of the finest producers in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet. In top vintages his wines reveal excellent to outstanding concentration, creamy, honeyed textures, and a style not far removed from one of the great masters of white Burgundy, Michel Niellon. 1994 is a tricky vintage for white Burgundy, with the top wines concentrated and forward, yet their low acidity gives them a beguiling, flattering, up-front style. However, many wines do lack concentration as they were produced from over-cropped vineyards. Robert Kacher: 2015 Vine Street NE, Washington, DC 20018; tel. (202) 832-9083, fax (202) 529-2579

Round and supple yet fresh. Approachable now, it's seductive without being overdone. Enjoy the lovely, unctuous mix of honey, lime, butter, cream and mineral flavors that caress your palate. Whoa! 516 cases made. -