Serious Chardonnays are being produced by new winemaker, Graham Weerts, at Jess Jackson’s Alexander Valley estate, Stonestreet. The least expensive offering, the 2005 Chardonnay Alexander Valley, is an 8,000-case cuvee revealing plenty of crisp acidity as well as orange marmalade and honeyed lemon notes. It is a lovely, fruity white with the wood component kept well in the background (which is refreshing to see after so many overly oaked Stonestreet wines in the past). Tel. (800) 355-8008; Fax (707) 433-9469

Pretty good Chard, not quite on a par with the winery’s Upper Barn bottlings but close. The grapes come partially from the Upper Barn vineyard, but it’s all mountain-grown, showing concentrated pear, pineapple and peach flavors, with a rich, tobacco herbaceousness.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 87