Mondavi's Chardonnays continue to go from strength to strength. The big, buttery, toasty, lavishly oaked and honeyed, fully mature 1992 Chardonnay Reserve needs to be drunk over the next 1-2 years. It possesses unctuously rich, full-bodied flavors, as well as a nutty, Meursault-like personality.This venerable Napa winery, which, justifiably, has enormous influence on the quality and direction of California winemaking, continues to perform admirably, pushing quality at both the vineyard and winery to greater heights. Readers who mistakenly believe size is not synonymous with quality must be surprised by the bevy of extraordinary wines turned out by the Mondavis. This winery's movement away from California's tendency to produce wines with excessive amounts of added acidity that are tart, often eviscerated (because of too much fining and filtering), began in 1987 with their Reserve reds. It has been vigorously continued, with the Mondavis now bottling virtually all their top white wines without filtration - a tribute to this family's commitment and dedication to excellence. Mondavi's new and up-coming releases reinforce Mondavi's position as the spiritual and qualitative leader of that segment of the California wine industry dedicated to producing world class, compelling wines.Tel. (707) 963-9611; Fax (707) 963-1007.