Ripe purple plum, malt, roasted meats, smoky black tea, and hints of alkalinity inform the nose of Remoissenet’s 2007 Beaune Greves, then coalesce into a bittersweet concentrate, with salt, iodine, and plum pit reinforcing its palate-staining effect. For all of the density on display, the texture is practically silken. This will be one of those relatively few 2007s that genuinely rewards cellaring, and I can imagine it performing well for a decade. Remoissenet owns a significant share of Pinot Noir acreage in both Cotes, to which they will be adding, in contrast to their circumstances with Chardonnay, wherein their control over a large share of Montrachet is unique, and represents the bargaining chip employed to acquire fruit or young wines as a negociant. (For further details on the “new Remoissenet” begun in 2006, its evolution and its personnel, please consult my report on their 2007 vintage whites in issue 189.) The low yields and late harvest to which the team here pledges allegiance has led to two impressive collections. With regard to my speculations concerning longevity, bear in mind that no track record has yet been established under the current regime, the upbringing of pre-2006 wines under the Remoissenet label being utterly irrelevant. Importers: Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476.