The 1995 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva is a towering, majestic wine of heroic proportions. This big, full-bodied wine flows across the palate with remarkable depth, expansiveness and purity. There are tons of ripe dark fruit here, along with nuances of leather, spices and sweet tobacco. This opulent wine builds on the finish, where it displays superb staying power. This is another reference-point wine from Giuseppe Quintarelli, and although it is insanely expensive, it isn't marred by some of the imperfections (namely excessive volatile acidity) that sometimes show up in his wines. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025. It isn't easy to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli, as this legendary producer releases his wines when he feels they are ready, not a moment sooner. As is often the case, these are some of the most mind-blowing wines being made anywhere, but sadly, prices are equally dizzying. Still, for readers who can afford them, these are reference-point wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999