The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (5,000 cases made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a supple, flamboyant, and more accessible version of the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep ruby/purple-colored, with a classic nose of tobacco leaf, black currant, licorice, and smoke, the wine is medium to full-bodied, has a supple texture, an attractive textural mouthfeel in addition to a plush, heady finish. Drink it over the next 8-10 years. Readers who love the Bob Foley style of wines, and there seem to be many who do, should also know that he produces wines under his own name, and is also the winemaker for Switchback Ridge and Hourglass, two other up-and-coming estates.Tel. (707) 963-4949; Fax (707) 963-8364

The soft 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label exhibits an opaque purple color. It appears to be fully mature, but with its concentration and richness, it is capable of lasting another 10-15 years. Lots of cassis, incense, licorice, toasty oak and spring flower characteristics are abundantly displayed in this lovely, rich, pure, opulent wine. This enviable and venerable winery high on top Spring Mountain straddles the Napa and Sonoma county lines. These three sensational 2002s are all capable of lasting another 10-15+ years. Tel. (707) 963-4949

After encountering this tannic wine, you’re left wondering if the cellar will be kind to it. Probably, but it’s not a slam-dunk. It’s tough and gritty, and you have to chew on it to release the black currants from their cage. Hold until 2008 and try again. ——S.H.(6/1/2005)—— 86