The NV Rare Sherry Amontillado Solera AOS wears its 22% alcohol with flair and elegance. A bright, dark mahogany-colored wine, it originates from a solera created in 1903 and averages 25 years of age. The complex nose is one of a kind, with strong aromatics, rosemary and thyme covering the roasted hazelnuts, bitter oranges, noble woods and curry. The medium- to full-bodied palate shows a very spicy, smoky wine with hints of coffee, layered, intense, more subtle than in your face and very complex. To keep the old average age, only 300 bottles are filled each year. A tour de force wine! Drink 2013-2025. Osborne is one of the classical names in Puerto de Santamaria, one of the greatest names in the history of Sherry, Brandy, and the iconic silhouette of the huge black bull that truffles the Spanish roads id one of the stereotypical images of the Spain of the 70s and 80s. The venerable history was initiated by Englishman Thomas Osborne, who started shipping his Sherries in 1804. Today the company has diversified its business and produces Port in the Douro, wines in different regions in Spain, is still a market leader in the Brandy business, and has interest in other products, spirits, cured meats of first quality (5J, Sanchez Romero Carvajal), mineral water and restaurants, so the Sherries might sometimes be overlooked. As part of the globalization of the big Sherry and Brandy companies and the mergers and acquisitions, Osborne purchased the flagship soleras and brands of the VORS wines from the now deceased Pedro Domecq, Amontillado 51-1A, Capuchino Palo Cortado, Sibarita Oloroso and Sibarita Pedro Ximenez, which for some consumers is a little confusing, as they kind of compete with the existing Osborne line of VORS Sherries, and they even seem to be sold at similar prices. Imported by Evaton, Inc., Stamford, CT; tel. (203) 968-8220

Dark and mature, with iodine and roasted nuts on the nose. Very salty and aggressive on the palate, almost too much so. Finishes with popcorn, clarified butter and peanuts. Better aromatics than flavors; comes off the nose and hits the wall before slumping. Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons. ——M.S.(8/1/2005)—— 87