The 2009 Pinot Noir Olivet Lane Vineyard is one of the more gracious, mid-weight wines in this lineup. It floats across the palate with sweet dark cherries, crushed, flowers, mint, licorice and spices. The Olivet Lane is all about subtlety, and there is plenty of that here. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Intensely ripe, jammy raspberry and cherry fruit marks this impressive young Pinot Noir. It shows Williams Selyem’s impeccable balance and elegance, but is a little soft and direct, lacking nuance. Could do interesting things in the bottle down the years, but seems best now and through 2014. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 91