The 2004 Syrah reveals aromas of smoked meat, lavender, and blueberry. Dense and layered, it will benefit from 2-3 years of additional cellaring and provide pleasure through 2019. Marques de Grinon was the first winery in Spain to be awarded its own DO. The Emeritus bottlings are blends of Cabernet, Syrah, and Petit Verdot.Importer not known. www.pagosmarquesdegrignon.es

There are more similarities than differences among the Grinon varietal roster, but a favorite has to be this dense and meaty Syrah. While not the most sauvage or iconoclastic Syrah on the market, it excels with a delicious plum and berry palate and searing intensity. It’s all fruit and power, but in that style it’s quite something.——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 93