The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, which comes from five parcels of vines averaging 47 years and is raised in 35% used oak for 8 months, has an outgoing and quite engaging bouquet with scents of apple blossom, almond and a whiff of white truffle. The palate is well-balanced with a crisp line of acidity. This has very good weight and impressive complexity, hints of fresh orange zest and lemon coming through on the finish. Recommended. Drink now-2020. Opposite the winery of William Fevre is Domaine Christian Moreau. Unusually, Christian owns more grand cru vines than premier or village cru, such is the way the family’s chips fell when the Moreau family’s holdings were split in 2002 between his cousins to form Louis and Christian Moreau. Everything here is harvested by hand – even the Petit Chablis. Christian told me that the 2013 vintage is the first to be certified organic, which is how his vines have been tended since 2005. Around 65% of the fruit is aged in stainless steel, the remainder in a combination of used barrels, around 10% new or 1-year-old. I must confess that I was relatively unfamiliar with Christian’s wines but I was mightily impressed. They showed great detail both aromatically and on the palate, expressing the nuances with style, perhaps with the one exception being the Vaudesir. Christian came across as a conscientious winemaker, aware of his enviable holdings but refreshingly down-to-earth and practical. Importer: Frederic Wildman (US) and Thorman Hunt and Haynes, Hanson & Clarke (UK)