The flagship of a global empire, Beringer’s wines are consistently good, and also include some surprising values for shrewd consumers. The 2004 Riesling is one such wine. Coming from the Gamble Ranch in Yountville, a relatively cool site, the wine has terrific texture, notes of lemon oil and apple skin in a steely, dry style that has surprising texture and length. It’s a steal at the price, but needs to be consumed over the next year. Tel. (707) 963-7115; Fax (707) 963-1735