My second encounter with the 1999 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru in as many months was just as conversation-stopping as the first (see my review in Issue 237). Its deep, brooding bouquet of black fruits and carnal, savory nuances—smoked meats, dark chocolate and licorice—was the same, and on the palate, it was just as full-bodied, multidimensional and complete. Placed in the context of its peers from Domaine Leroy in the same vintage, it stood out as the highlight of the flight for its energy and vitality. So, I see no reason to adjust either my score or drinking window.

The dark ruby-colored 1999 Mazis-Chambertin has an awesome nose that reveals violets, intense blackberries, and sweet cherries. This deep, profound wine has admirable focus, great purity, harmony, and a mind-bogglingly long finish. Loads of tangy griotte (morello) cherries can be found throughout this exceptional wine's character. It is powerful, elegant, and extroverted. Projected maturity: 2006-2018+.Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.