Since the law does not, it turns out, recognize this unusually acid-retentive and distinctively-perfumed branch of the Traminer family as a separate variety, Knoll has had to simplify the description on this year’s label, which now reads simply 2004 Traminer Smaragd. The wine itself, however, is a good bit more complex than its name, leading off with a lovely nose of rose petals and prosciuto-wrapped melon. A delicate to the touch yet ample, rich refined and billowing palate full of melon, pit fruits, smoked meat and roses leads to a perfumed finish featuring the lively juicy cast that only this one member of the Traminer family can deliver. For all of the sultry richness on display here, this was the very first wine Knoll harvested in 2004. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700