The NV Fino La Panesa is a reference for old Fino, pushing the limits of biological aging. Bottled at an impressive old age of 15 years from a solera created in 1961, it shows a deep golden color and a nose full of dried nuts (hazelnuts), elegant, complex and balanced, with intense salinity, pungent flavors, a full, wide palate and great length. This is a superb example of how to control the power of very old, biological Sherries. As with most of the NV wines, it’s impossible to distinguish the different bottlings so it’s hard to give a drinking window, because you’ll not know how old the bottle you have is, but the wine has the stuffing to last and even improve for a good five years. This is one of the greatest Finos in existence today. Drink 2013-2018. Emilio Hidalgo founded his bodega in the center of Jerez in 1874, where it is still managed by the fifth generation of the family. They have an impressive range of wines, with some of the original soleras containing wines over 100 years old which are offered in homeopathic quantities (like their superb Palo Cortado and PX ). Imported by Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; www.winebow.com

Aromas of dried apple, cherry, mint and oil. A medium-bodied, nutty Sherry, more like a fino pasada with a savoury tang. Very long.