The 1983 Gran Reserva 904 possesses a Graves-like nose of tobacco, cedar, smoke, and ripe red fruits. Flavorful and rich, yet managing to taste light and elegant, this ripe, concentrated, beautifully made, smooth as silk wine is capable of lasting 10 more years. Rioja's Gran Reservas are rare and expensive. The demand for them by the best Spanish restaurants ensures that only tiny quantities leave the country. Eschewing the modern style of Rioja that is bottled after several years of aging in American oak casks, Rioja Alta remains one of the few Spanish bodegas dedicated to making traditionally-styled Riojas. While I do not want to denigrate the modern style, there is a lot to be said for wines such as these. They are released when fully mature, yet they hold for a considerable amount of time. The five offerings described in this issue all demonstrate impeccable winemaking. They possess plenty of sweet, vanillin, smoky new oak, as well as wonderfully ripe, succulent textures. Importer: Europvin USA, Watertown, MA.