Possibly the greatest vintage ever for this cuvee (we'll see if the 2010 tops it in another decade), the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes is up with the creme de la creme of the vintage. Still fresh, concentrated and lively, with medium to full-bodied richness and polished tannin, it reveals a vibrant ruby color to go with tons of garrigue, leather, chocolate, cured meats and spice. A blend of 37% Mourvedre, 36% Grenache and the rest Syrah that spent 12 months in small barrels followed by six months in tank, it's an incredible, modern-styled Chateauneuf du Pape that's drinking spectacularly today.

A great example of this famous cuvee, which is almost always Mourvedre-dominated, the 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes is just hitting its adolescence. Dense bluish/purple with an extraordinary nose of blueberry, black raspberry, graphite, smoke, and mineral, this full-bodied, rich wine has resolved most of its tannins and thrown off any evidence of the new oak barrels it was aged in. With a finish that goes on for a good 45 seconds, this is a modern-styled, but brilliant example of Chateauneuf du Pape where the Mourvedre is the dominant grape in the blend. Perhaps the 2001 will achieve this level of quality, but the 1998 remains one of the finest Cuvee des Cadettes ever made. It should continue to drink well for another 20 years.