Beginning to show some hints of tertiary evolution, the 1999 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is showing very well, delivering aromas of ripe plums, sweet red berries, exotic spices, orange rind and forest floor. Full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a fleshy core of fruit and a sapid, perfumed finish, this is one of the high points of Laurent Ponsot's time at the helm of this storied domaine.