Served blind at a private dinner, the 1987 Perrieres proved a real eye-opener for many a seasoned palate. The nose is quite reserved at first, reluctantly offering earthy scents: autumn leaves mingling with beeswax, honeysuckle, pear and stone. But over the following hour it really opens up and loses it inhibitions – gaining intensity all the time, achieving ever-greater delineation. The palate is very well-balanced with a fine line of acidity. There is a hint of shaved ginger on the entry that lends a touch of spice and it builds to a compelling, understated saline finish. This is just wonderful, especially considering the growing season, although it will not meliorate any further. Tasted September 2013.