Yes, the price of the 2003 Blaufrankisch Goldberg does have a “1” in front of it. Austrian cult wine, anyone? Make no mistake, that is what this is. But there is a good reason as few if any other Austrian reds have demonstrated such quality and ageability. Open this up in 5-7 years in the company of its equivalently priced brethren from more celebrated red wine regions and you will gain a proper perspective. Meantime, the nose here is bitter-sweetly scented with Franc-like mulberry, machine oil, iron filings, and walnut oil as well as cassis. Ripe and rich without tasting overtly sweet, this deep red spreads its tentacles on your palate and won’t let go. Don’t worry – the tannins won’t hurt you. The effect is very fine-grained and a lovely saltiness creeps into the back which, along with the faintly tart edge of berry freshness, makes for an effect at once soothing and refreshing. The long finish offers a reprise of black fruits, violets, nuts and iron filings along with cardamom and mint. (And if you can detect the 100% new wood here you must have x-ray olfactors.) Sophisticated, meticulous new plantings here as well as a special measure of Silvia Prieler’s attention (not to mention aspects of her doctoral thesis) are devoted to Pinot Noir, so I regret to note that I found the aggressively phenolic and oaky personality of her dark and massively extracted 2003 unconvincing. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300