The full-bodied, in-your-face 2009 Condrieu La Galopine reveals a touch of new oak intermingled with abundant fruit. Under the inspired leadership of winemaker/administrator Jacques Grange, who has carte blanche authority from the proprietors, the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm, Delas has been on a fabulous qualitative roll for over a decade. They have enjoyed some great successes, so it is hard to say 2009 may be the magnum opus of Jacques Grange, but it certainly looks fabulous. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Superfresh, with creamy yet racy melon, white peach and anise notes that sail through the long finish. Lovely floral and mineral notes flitter underneath. Drink now through 2011. -JM