The 2001 Barolo Lazzarito was made in the same over, opulent style as the other 2001s, but now, after the passage of time, it is the vineyard’s distinct signature that has taken center stage. Black cherries, plums, licorice, tar and smoke are some of the many notes that flow from this huge, muscular 2001. If anything, the 2001 needs more is time. Subtle overtones of mint, flowers and spices add the final layers of complexity. This is another great showing. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2026. I was not a big fan of Fontanafredda’s 2001 Baroli when they were first released. I thought the wines were excessively dark, heavy and ponderous. They were clearly wines made in the style that was popular at the time. Now, some years later, the truth is that the wines have aged beautifully, and far better than I ever imagined. So, what does that really mean? Locals often say Fontanafredda owns most of the very finest sites in Serralunga. Perhaps that is the key lesson to take away from tasting the 2001s. As outstanding as the wines are, it seems amply clear the estate was just scratching the surface of its potential. Today, Fontanafredda’s majority owner is Oscar Farinetti, the charismatic and hugely successful entrepreneur behind the Eataly high-end food and wine emporiums. The wines are still made by Danilo Drocco, but in a much more classic-leaning style. The Lazzarito and La Villa (recently rechristened as Vigna Paiagallo) are now part of the Casa Mirafiore brand that Farinetti spun out of Fontanafredda, one of the more genius decisions I have seen in a long time in Italian wine. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Ripe and thick, but slightly reserved. Full-bodied and chewy, with lots of prune, berry and coffee character. Needs a good amount of bottle age. Best after 2009. 1,900 cases made, 300 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add