The Humbrechts believe 1997 is the greatest Gewurztraminer vintage since 1990, with the possible exception of 1994. Readers who crave ostentatious Gewurztraminers will flip for Zind-Humbrecht's flamboyant 1997s.Produced from vines planted in 1949, the botrytis, apricot, peach, and bergamot-scented 1997 Gewurztraminer Heimbourg supports 16.3% alcohol and 40 grams of residual sugar per liter. This magnificently delineated wine conquers the palate with jasmine, rose water, poached/spiced pears, and baked apples. It is refined yet hugely powerful, complex yet forward. Its intensely long finish reveals a trace of heat from its high alcohol that prevented its score from reaching the stratosphere. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.